So Sri Lanka

The Northern Capital

Enjoy the friendly culture and scenic vistas of Jaffna – Ruwandi Perera

If you believe that you’ve experienced the wonders of Sri Lanka without setting foot in Jaffna, think again. The northernmost part of the island, known as Yalpanam, is an odd-shaped peninsula that juts out towards India. It’s one of the most iconic and spellbinding places in Sri Lanka – and you will need weeks to explore the peninsula.

You can take the train to reach Jaffna after a smooth six and a half hour ride by Intercity Express. If you wish to travel by road, leave Colombo in the wee hours so that you reach Jaffna town in time for breakfast.

Either way, it’s best to have a vehicle to travel around in the peninsula because there’s so much to explore.

If you want a quiet experience, it’s best to avoid the Thai Pongal weekend. But if you’re one for crowds and celebrations, this festival is when the city comes alive. The warm hospitality of the people and their love for movies and food, as well as a whole host of places to visit, will make for a jam-packed travel itinerary.

A typical Jaffna holiday will include a visit to the landmark Jaffna Public Library, Clock Tower and Archaeological Museum, as well as many churches and kovils that dot the peninsula.

Then there are the Keerimalai and Kankesanthurai beaches to enjoy while the more adventurous vacationers can explore the sand dunes, Adam’s Bridge and the wetlands, which are often teeming with migratory birds.

Even if you’re not the gallivanting kind, you can enjoy the thrill of the place because everything in Jaffna is rich in culture and utterly unique. So pack your bags with extra sunscreen, a hat and your adventurous spirit – because your destination is where the magic unfolds.


Fact File

PRAYER GROUND During Thai Pongal, the beautiful Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil can become very crowded and festive. Surrounded by the characteristic red and white walls with its gleaming gold tower looming tall and bright, this kovil complex is dedicated to Lord Murugan – a.k.a. Lord Kataragama. As far as attire is concerned, women must cover their legs and shoulders while men can remove their shirts. Be serenaded by the tolling of the bells, chanting of prayers, cracking of coconuts, fragrance of burning incense and unblemished faith of pilgrims who flock to worship.

HORSE ISLAND The remote island of Delft has a bizarre land­scape, which consists of limestone, baobabs and palm trees, and very few inhabitants. You have to take the ferry but the ride can take more than an hour. Visit the ancient fort, look for the wild horses, and check out the pigeon nests, Dutch stables and the old Dutch hospital. Carry lots of water and snacks because you won’t find many shops here. Rent a tuk-tuk and explore until it’s time to catch the ferry back.

BUZZING BAZAAR The Jaffna market is a cacophony of loud music, colourful shops, street vendors and cows that walk around as if they own the place. You can easily spend half a day here without realising it as you walk among the vegetable and fruit sellers, as well as rows of dried fish shops that sell the famous prawn karawala. Sip sugary milk tea or if you fancy, an icy gooseberry saruwath or even a faluda. Pick up palm jaggery and kotta kilangu to take back home, and maybe
some nelli crush and Rosetto wine made by the Rosarian nuns.

COLONIAL MIGHT Built by the Portuguese, fortified by the Dutch and controlled by the British later, the Jaffna Fort is a massive stonewalled complex housing several establishments including the old Governor’s Residence, Queen’s House, Kruys Church and police quarters. The Fortress of Our Lady of Miracles of Jafanapatão with its five bastions – namely Zeeland, Holland, Gelderland, Utrecht and Friesland – looks over the Indian Ocean and the causeway; it is an excellent location for sightseeing, Instagramming or simply walking around in the evening.

SUGAR AND SPICE The cuisine here is unique to the peninsula and it’s more South Indian than Sri Lankan. You can devour dosa smothered in sambar, kool by the ladle, vada of all types, paratha with hot prawn curry and biriyani washed down with creamy lassi. Everything tastes heavenly and even the most devoted carnivores will enjoy the vegan heavy food here. Having said
that, the mutton curry is amazing as is the cuttlefish curry. And when in Jaffna, an ice cream shop is never far away… so get ready to have an eternal sugar rush!