Wish you were here

Vietnam’s rising star      

Sandip Hor visits the enchanting coastal city of Quy Nhon to study its rich history

Situated between Da Nang in Central Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh City in the south is the seafront sanctuary of Quy Nhon, which is deemed a rising star in the nation’s thriving tourism industry.

Its deep-water harbour has been one of Vietnam’s most significant ports for almost a millennium as it was an important stop on the maritime route linking China with Europe and the Middle East.

With a population of around half a million, Quy Nhon still thrives as a port with a large fishing fleet; it is also a popular holiday destination for locals and foreigners.

People relax – and enjoy the sun, sea and sand – in Quy Nhon while delighting in the sumptuous fresh seafood on offer.

WHERE TO STAY As it is a popular holiday destination, the city boasts many hotels and luxury resorts. However, locals say Anantara Quy Nhon Villas are the finest as they’re surrounded by mountains on three sides and overlook the Bay of Quy Nhon.

A stay in one of the 25 luxury pool villas located across nearly three hectares of lush landscaped gardens offers beachfront basking and endless adventurous discoveries. These include exploring the surrounding ruins, fishermen’s villages and uninhabited islands off the coast.

WHAT TO EAT As a seafront location, Quy Nhon is famous for its seafood. Several restaurants and cafes serve a range of delicacies from fish, prawns, oysters, octopus, squid and calamari to almost everything that grows underwater.

Local favourites include bánh xèo (which is a rice paper pancake with shrimp salad and a dash of chilli sauce) and noodle soup with fish cakes and blanched vegetables known as bun ca.

WHERE TO GO The idyllic landscape boasts a shoreline that’s blessed with an enchanting beach, which is flanked by an impressive promenade that extends from the port to distant wooded hills in the south. And the highlight of this palm tree lined stretch is the giant statue of young Ho Chi Minh with his father.

Besides its white beaches, turquoise water and picturesque cliffs, avant-garde Quy Nhon is also home to several Hindu temples built by the rulers of the Cham Dynasty.

They ruled the seaside region in Central Vietnam between the 4th and 13th centuries with a massive naval power. Their seat of power was initially near modern-day Hội An; but around the 10th century, it moved to Quy Nhon.

The Cham rulers followed the Hindu consciousness, which was introduced to them by traders visiting from India. Between the 4th and 13th centuries, they built a series of red-brick temples dedicated to Lord Shiva at Mỹ Sơn, which is 40 kilometres away from Hội An, and a few more on the outskirts of Quy Nhon.

Many of the temples were destroyed due to natural calamities but a few still exist to testify to the artistic talent of the time, which is comparable to that of the builders of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and the Borobudur or Prambanan temple compound in Indonesia.

There are a couple located inside a park within the city limits of Quy Nhon, and a few others on hilltops and in valleys not far away from the city centre.

These temples have been built with reddish bricks and their common architectural features include spear shaped arches with carved designs over the windows and doorways. Each temple is a visual feast as the bas reliefs on the exteriors depict scenes from Hindu mythology and appeal like poetry on stone.

Quy Nhon can be reached by rail, road and air from Da Nang or Ho Chi Minh City, which are international gateways.