Wish you were here

Tea hill and toy train

Sandip Hor travels to the former Gurkha village of Darjeeling to learn of its past

Darjeeling, once a Gurkha village at the foothills of the Himalayas in India, became the ideal escape for British colonisers in the 19th century during the hot Indian summer when their imperial capital of Calcutta (modern-day Kolkata) became almost unliveable.

It belonged to the hereditary monarchy of the Kingdom of Sikkim at the time and was called ‘Dorjeling’ in Tibetan, meaning ‘land of the thunderbolt.’

The British managed to purchase it from the Sikkimese royals and transformed Darjeeling into a settlement fit for conducting their colonial duties.

And the hilly landscape was soon packed with palaces for the British governor general and Indian maharajas, colonial office buildings for administrative staff and quaint cottages for the affluent – alongside hotels, restaurants, clubs and shops that lined the winding thoroughfares.

Then European missionaries moved in to establish boarding schools that were comparable to their counterparts in Europe while Scottish and English tea planters made Darjeeling world-famous for tea.

Dubbed ‘Queen of Hills,’ this montane dowager continues to retain the seductive charms that make Darjeeling one of India’s most visited tourist destinations.

WHERE TO STAY Heritage plays an important role when discovering Darjeeling. And that is best experienced when staying at the colonial heritage-oriented Elgin or Windamere Hotels, where the decor and ambience bring alive the bygone British era.

WHERE TO EAT No visit to Darjeeling is complete without having the full English breakfast at Keventer’s, which is a culinary institution with a history of over 100 years. Another eatery worth trying for bakery products is Glenary’s bakery, restaurant and pub.

WHERE TO SHOP Darjeeling is a great place to buy woollen garments, some of which are imported from neighbouring Bhutan.

WHERE TO GO The Mall, which is this hilly town’s hub, is a pedestrianised zone. Locals and visitors congregate to eat, shop and socialise, and visit a Hindu temple or catch a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Kanchenjunga – the world’s third highest peak.

While it’s possible to see the spectacular Himalayan panorama from almost everywhere in Darjeeling, the most popular viewing platform is Tiger Hill. Visitors can enjoy the morning sun’s first rays as they mystically colour the peaks of Kanchenjunga.

Another great viewing point is the Batasia Loop, which is home to an iconic narrow gauge railway track – another key attraction in Darjeeling.

This fairytale ‘toy train’ that’s been operating since 1881 originally linked the torrid plains with the mountains. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site  and covers a much shorter distance as a wondrous memoir of the past.

The ethnic population of Darjeeling comprises people from neighbouring Sikkim, Nepal and Bhutan. Since they are Buddhists, the quarter is home to many Buddhist temples, monasteries and stupas, and provides an ensemble that attracts myriad visitors.

Most famous of these is the Yiga Choeling or Old Ghoom Gompa Monastery.

Like Swiss chocolates and Scotch whisky, Darjeeling is inextricably allied with tea, and discerning travellers are drawn to this region to taste the top-quality brew.

Many tea gardens, which are open to tourists, allow them to wander around the lush green plantations; learn how tea is produced; and last but not least, taste and buy some packs to take home.

Since Darjeeling lies at the foothills of the world’s highest mountain range, a visit to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute can be a fascinating experience, particularly for the adventurous. It was established in 1953 in honour of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay after he and New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary conquered Mount Everest first.

The institute is the training ground for mountaineering students but the lure for outsiders remains the museum, which is stocked with multiple exhibits that tell thrilling stories of many expeditions to Himalayan mountain summits.