CENTRAL ASIAN HUB
Wish you were here
TASHKENT
The silken city
Sandip Hor writes from Uzbekistan – the ultramodern capital at the crossroads of Asia
As historical records indicate, the settlement’s journey began nearly 2,000 years ago and has since been shaped by numerous empires that governed Uzbekistan – including the Persian and Arab eras, which brought Islam to the region – as well as Mongol and Russian influences in the 19th century.
After Uzbekistan joined the Soviet Union in 1922, Tashkent was designated the capital in 1930 and the city has retained this status even following independence in 1992.
During the Soviet period, Tashkent ranked as the third most important city of the regime after Moscow and Leningrad (now St. Petersburg). The cityscape comprised well maintained parks, Moscow style tree lined avenues and squares, and a host of impressive buildings.
Unfortunately, a devastating earthquake in 1966 resulted in the destruction of many of these structures. So the architectural facades that now welcome visitors are relatively new and showcase 21st century designs.
Tashkent’s metro system, which was constructed by the Russians in 1977, is notable. In addition to providing an affordable and convenient means of transportation throughout the city, the underground railway stations are tourist attractions.
Similar to those in Moscow, each resembles an open art gallery with their grand chandeliers and exquisite artefacts.
In January 1966, the then Indian prime minister Lal Bahadur Shastri passed away following a heart attack, after signing a peace treaty with Pakistan in the presence of the Soviet Union’s premier Alexei Kosygin. As a tribute, a statue of Shastri was erected in a city park and the street on which it stands was named in his honour.
WHERE TO STAY The Lotte City Hotels Tashkent Palace and Hotel Uzbekistan offer modern comforts and luxury, combined with touches of history and unique Uzbek traditions.
Another hotel worth considering is the ultramodern Hilton Tashkent City where the service is impeccable. It’s located round the corner from Tashkent City Mall and Tashkent City Park. The park is famous for its spectacular light and fountain show every evening.
WHAT TO EAT Plov is a hearty pilaf of rice, meat and carrots; it’s the national dish of Uzbekistan and a ‘must try’ at a plov centre – where besides eating, guests can watch it being prepared on a large scale.
Other local items of interest are the round and fluffy non bread (lepyoshka in Russian) and samsa, which is a meat filled pastry baked in tandoor ovens.
WHAT TO BUY Caps, ikat fabrics and hand embroidered suzani coats are popular merchandise that visitors pack into their suitcases, along with dried fruits and spices.
The best place to shop in the city is the centuries old Chorsu Bazaar, where the trading atmosphere carries legacies from the Silk Road era. Tashkent was a stop on that famous trade route that connected China and India with Europe.
WHERE TO GO The cityscape can be broadly divided into two parts: new and old.
In the newer section that is home to avant-garde buildings and monuments, the city’s main thoroughfares radiate from Amir Timur Square, which is dominated by an equestrian statue of the mighty 14th century Turco-Mongol Emperor Timur (Tamerlane). As founder of the Timurid dynasty, he expanded his empire from India to Iran, and placed Uzbekistan on the world map as an epicentre of science, art and Islamic architecture.
The older section is characterised by old style buildings – some still made of mud, and flanking narrow lanes and alleyways. Most visited places include Kukeldash Madrasah and the Hazrati Imam complex, which feature a number of mosques, minarets and mausoleums.
One of the buildings here houses the world’s oldest Quran, which is written on deerskin and stored inside a large glass cabinet.
