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India’s city of gates    

Sandip Hor visits the ancient city of Aurangabad to learn its history and culture

Situated on the elevated terrain of the Deccan Traps in Western India, the city of Khadki remained relatively obscure throughout much of the turbulent medieval period. However, the city gained prominence in 1653 when it fell to the formidable Mughal Empire.

Emperor Aurangzeb designated Khadki as his provincial capital and renamed it Aurangabad. The area surrounding the river was fortified with 52 gates, which were constructed to control access and led to its alternative designation as the ‘City of Gates.’

Notably, the city has undergone several name changes over the years. And by 2023, it became known as Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, in honour of Sambhaji. He was the eldest son of the renowned King Shivaji Maharaj of the Maratha Empire, which rose to power following the decline of Mughal influence.

The city and its surrounding regions offer numerous attractions, which range from forts and historic monuments to revered Hindu temples.

However, the city’s global recognition stems primarily from its role as the gateway to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Ajanta and Ellora Caves. These sites are renowned for their ancient cave art and architecture, and linked to the three major religions in the country – viz. Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism.

WHERE TO STAY There are many hotels, guesthouses and hostels, to suit all tastes and budgets. Set on five hectares of lush gree­nery is the Ambassador Ajanta Hotel, which is located not far from the airport, and in close proximity to the railway station and shopping district. It showcases a blend of modern comfort and rich tradition. The hotel offers expansive accommodation including opulent suites, as well as a restaurant, a lounge and so on.

WHAT TO EAT Locals recommend eating naan qalia, which is a traditional mutton curry paired with naan bread. Tahri or tehri is a vegetarian version of biryani made with aromatic spices and vegetables; it’s perfect for those who prefer meat free options.

WHERE TO SHOP The city is famous for shawls and saris, which are made from a locally sourced silk and cotton blended fabric called himroo. This fabric was originally woven in ancient Persia and introduced to the region centuries ago in the time of its Muslim rulers. Paithani silk saris are also available in various colours and patterns. The best areas for retail therapy are Gulmandi, Connaught Shopping Market and Nirala Bazaar.

WHERE TO GO Like many other emerging cities in India, Aurangabad is divided into two distinct zones. The modern section features contemporary amenities such as upscale hotels, cafes, restaurants, fashionable shops and shopping malls while the older part is rich in historical significance. Access to the historic area is granted through one of the ancient gates, of which only 13 remain of the original 52.

A prominent landmark in this section is the Bibi Ka Maqbara, which resembles the renowned Taj Mahal – it is a mausoleum constructed in 1651 by a son of Aurangzeb in honour of his mother. Another significant site is the medieval citadel that’s located not far from the city. It was built in the 12th century by a Hindu king and is known as ‘Deogiri’ – meaning ‘abode of the gods.’

Bibi Ka Maqbara was later taken over by Muslim rulers and renamed Daulatabad or ‘City of Fortune.’ The extensive outer wall of this formidable fortress stretches over six kilometres and features inner walls equipped with iron gates. Numerous gateways, mosques and tombs are situated near the bastion with the tomb of Aurangzeb being noteworthy.

Additionally, Aurangabad is famous for its collection of cave temples, which were carved around the 6th century and showcase sculptures related to Buddhism. The city also hosts the revered Ghrishneshwar Temple that’s dedicated to Lord Shiva.