THE ODISHA FILE
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Pilgrimage to Puri
Sandip Hor is amazed by Puri’s numerous religious sites and the Bay of Bengal
Located on the shores of the Bay of Bengal, Puri is a holiday destination in the state of Odisha in Eastern India. Its attraction is twofold – pristine sandy beaches splashed by the rolling breakers of the Indian Ocean and a colossal temple built in the 12th century for the deity Jagannath (an avatar of Lord Krishna).
This makes Puri one of the nation’s most sacred pilgrimage sites.
Throughout the year, this vibrant town is packed with holidaymakers and pilgrims, particularly from neighbouring West Bengal. During the famous Rath Yatra (chariot festival) in July however, the number of visitors soars to record highs as devotees from across India congregate in Puri to participate in the sacred event.
On the auspicious day, statues of the three deities Jagannath, his brother Balarama or Baladeva and sister Subhadra are carried along the streets of Puri in three richly decorated chariots to the nearby temple of Shree Gundicha Mandir, which is said to be the abode of their aunt.
It’s the earnest desire of all these pilgrims to pull the chariots or at least touch them. Sometimes, overcrowding does result in mishaps.
WHERE TO STAY As the destination is a sanctuary for pilgrims and a seafront hotspot as well, the landscape – particularly the stretch along the water’s edge – is dotted with hotels and resorts of various types to suit different tastes and budgets.
The Chanakya BNR Hotel is a popular choice for travellers who prefer modern comforts mixed with the timeless grace of old-world charm. Housed in a historic colonial building at a serene location away from the town’s high energy atmosphere, this heritage hotel offers expansive rooms, tantalising corridors and well maintained terraces, all of which tell the story of India’s colonial past.
WHAT TO EAT There are plenty of restaurants offering multi-cuisine delights that range from Indian curries to Chinese noodle dishes.
Local favourites include dalma – a lentil based soup that’s sometimes prepared with vegetables; santula, which is a boiled vegetable curry that glides down the throat with every spoonful; sweet water fish curries and chhena poda – a dessert made with burnt homemade cottage cheese (paneer) and semolina combined with sugar syrup.
WHAT TO BUY The more popular items include handwoven saris with rich designs and comfortable fabric, and Pattachitra paintings that use natural colours and cloth, palm leaves and even glass as the canvas.
WHERE TO GO The Jagannath Temple is the religious hub of Puri. Built in the 12th century, the temple’s exterior including the 70 metre high tower at the top is filled with artistic carvings. However, these were discovered by archaeologists only in 1975 and had been covered in white plaster until then.
Legend claims that in the 17th century, the king covered the temple in plaster to protect it from the ravages of salt laden air.
The beachfront Swargadwar promenade is a short distance away from the temple and comprises the tourist hub of Puri. Most of the hotels and restaurants that overlook the turquoise blue waters of the ocean line this street.
Until around midmorning, the beaches are crowded with visitors of all ages frolicking in the vigorous waves of the Bay of Bengal. Thereafter, people move to the temple premises.
Some pilgrims hurry inside to worship while others spend their time browsing the array of shops selling a variety of souvenirs, handicrafts and food. Visitors enjoy the deep-fried sweet pastry called khaja.
A visit to the Sun Temple that was built in the 13th century in nearby Konark is a must. Constructed like a colossal chariot, this architectural marvel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s famous for its intricate stone carvings.
